The purple room with a hundred years of stories in the walls. Tootsie Bess ran a tab for the songwriters who couldn't yet pay, and Willie, Kris and Roger Miller all got their start on credit here. The magic is out the back door: it opens onto the alley across from the Ryman's stage entrance, so Opry
Try: A cold beer on the third-floor rooftop, then slip out the back to stand in the alley that faces the Ryman's stage door